Today was like something out of a fairytale. After having breakfast at our hotel we rushed to the train station because we thought we were about to miss the only train to the port that would take us to a ferry that would take us to Naoshima - our last stop in Japan. When we arrived we realized that it wasn’t actually the right train, the one included in our Japan rail pass, but this mistake led to a hilarious and memorable experience. The train we ended up getting on was called the Le Malle de Bois.

We hopped onto the two-car train and were surrounded by elaborate decor including a small bar, bookshelves, classical music playing, and hostesses that were above and beyond from their service to their uniforms. When we departed from the train station the hostess waved goodbye with two hands to everyone on the platform, everyone on the platform waved back. It seemed like a scene out of a movie. About 5 minutes into the ride we were brought warm towels for our hands and faces and we were immediately glad that we spent the $7 to take this train. 20 minutes into the ride and the hostess came by with 2 conductor’s hats and asked us if we wanted to do a little photo shoot on the train. On our way down to the port, we even made a 5 minutes stop, just so we could take pictures with the train with the Japanese landscape int he background. It was all very cute and surreal. We arrived at Uno Port about an hour later and were greeted with the same enthusiasm that we experienced on the train. Locals were excited to see us and tell us about what their small port town had to offer. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to explore as we headed straight to the ferry. Our ferry arrived and the fairytale continued - a 20 minute ride through a sea of stunning, seemingly empty islands, before arriving into Naoshima.

Naoshima is a small island, only 5 square miles with a very interesting mission - to revitalize an island by turning it into a must-see art destination. Here is a great article explaining it all a little further. The island itself it completely dedicated to the art and the way it interacts with nature. The museums and most of the hotel are built underground so as not to interrupt the beauty of the landscape. Rooms do not have TVs to encourage people to immerse themselves in nature and art. As you walk around the small island, pieces of art are hidden everywhere. From a very noticeable yellow pumpkin to a hidden sculpture, to impressive museums, you are continuously discovering something new and it’s all in the most stunning surroundings. The island has clear, calm waters, mountains lush with trees, and views of the sea and other islands. Even without the art component, it would be a magical place to visit. We had lunch at a vegan restaurant called Aisunao, which was exceptional. It was tucked away in a short alley and was an open, flowing space. The buildings in Naoshima were built with the wind in mind so that if your front and back door are open, the wind can naturally blow through it as if it were part of the original landscape.

After lunch we made our way to the hotel, Benesse House, to check in and then took a long, beautiful walk to Chichu Art Museum - one of the main attractions on the island. The whole island gave off some Ex-Machina/Jurassic Park/Apocolyptic vibes, but in a gorgeous and breathtaking way. Buildings were made entirely of concrete and underground, but still full of nature light. The Chichu Art Museum was also built underground and has some pretty exceptional pieces. One of the most beautiful was a Monet lily pad painting that took up almost the entirety of an incredibly vast wall. Our favorite room was one by artist James Turrell. Groups of 10 go in and are instructed to walk up a small set of stairs towards what looks like a pink light on the wall. As you get closer, you realize it’s actually a pink room that you can step inside. As you walk in the room changes colors, but it’s all very surreal like you’ve stepped into another world. I’ve never felt that way walking into something before, especially an art piece.

We eventually made it back to the hotel to finish our fairytale day with dinner at the hotel restaurant overlooking the sea. The trees and coastline reminded me a lot of the Pacific Northwest. Dinner was an 8-course meal including grilled fish and marinated salmon - both from the sea right outside our door. Full of exceptional food, we made out way back to the hotel, excited for the next day.

What I love about breakfast buffets in Japan is that a lot of the food is actually what we would consider lunch food. That being said, we had a delicious breakfast complete with macaroni gratin, French toast, made-to-order eggs, and freshly baked bread. Filled to the brim, we headed to the Benesse House Museum, another underground space. On our walk the day before, we saw two small boats, one yellow and one black down on a small beach on the island. As we were walking though the museum we saw a painting with two similar boats and two replica boats on the ground, when we looked out the window you could see those two boats far off in the distance. The second time I excitedly gasped during our time in Naoshima (the first being at the Chichu exhibit). The rest of the day was spent soaking in the sun and beach and enjoying our new island life. Our final meal was at the art museum overlooking the water. Another 8 course meal, this time traditional Japanese Kaiseki meal, a fitting meal for our last day in this special country.

Overall we loved Japan. It was such an interesting experience and we tried a lot of new things, saw new cities and landscapes, and learned a lot about Japanese people, customs, traditions and food. I think the people of Japan are the true highlight - they are kind, patient, and unique and made us feel right at home.